Of pigskins big and small

The comment on the chicharrones trumps my knowledge. In my childhood, we habaneros knew stores where you could pick chickens live and have them slaughtered and cleaned for you, but that's as far as our animal husbandry went -- today the whole issue of animal protein sources, as they say in the island, no es facil. What the reader says about the preparations from pig slaughter comes closer to what I heard as a child from my Spanish grandmother, who did grow up with country folkways.

And perhaps there are cultural differences between Oriente province, where the reader hails, and my native Havana, practically at the other end of the island. He first came across the small chicharrones in Miami, I did at Colombian eateries in Queens, NY., and Dominican ones in upper Manhattan.

Indeed, el Palacio de los Jugos, 5721 W Flagler St., has them, as well as the masas de puerco. They are constantly frying them all up and pouring them into a container along with garlic-studded pork fat.

I would also suggest any Colombian restaurant. They all carry the big chicharrones, which are a staple, particularly with paisas, the folk from the province of Antioquia, where Medellin is. The popular bandeja paisa, a big peasant dish, has chicharron. As does any picada, a plate of snacks that includes chicharron, morcilla and other goodies.

It may be that the big chicharrones are found in some Miami Cuban emporia because they were popular back home, but I always thought it was a response to the tastes of newer Latin American arrivals, like Colombians and others.

As for it being a snack with rum or beer, I say either one works fine. Salud!

Comments

[Alex]

Hey, I'm as habanero as it comes! Born in Maternidad de Línea, lived in the corner of L and 23 streets (across from the Havana Hilton and Radiocentro). My grandmother lived in Oriente, right outside Palma Soriano. You are right, the preparation of the pig in this manner comes straight from Spain. This was only done to hogs over 200 pounds or so, smaller ones were roasted whole. In Oriente they roast them on a pit, not on a spit.

I have seen the big chicharrones in Costa Rica (where they serve them as part of "tablita tica" similar to the Colombian bandeja paisa but even bigger), in Guatemala and even in Mexico, where they have both kinds.

I enjoy your blog (and your articles) a lot. I was laughing at the idea of La Bodeguita being fine food... please. The food is horrendous.