He who cuts the codfish

El que corta el bacalao -- an old Spanish-language expression that denotes the man, from the time when cod was a source of wealth and he who cut the codfish was the one in charge of distributing such wealth.

Cod is more expensive than ever, but it's no longer the wealth of nations. It is, however, the wealth of kitchens, or at least the savory dish that comes from them. In Miami, the man is Jaime Perez, the Basque chef at Sinfonia (4825 SW Eighth., Coral Gables; 305-445-1103), who makes the best bacalao a la vizcaina that a reader inquired about. Enjoy!

Actually, another chef is also the man. Fernando Santos, chef/owner of Coimbra (4239 W. Flagler, Miami; 305-446-3633), a Portuguese restaurant with a plethora of that country's great salt-cod dishes.

Either way, you can't lose. Read about them Thursday (March 3) in the Food section of The Miami Herald.