The very best wines of the South Beach Wine & Food Festival were poured Friday night at the "Best of the Best" tasting at the American Airlines Arena. They included the famous pinot noir that the wine snob Miles drank in the movie Sideways. An opulent merlot created in Chile by the daughter of the man who invented the famous liqueur Grand Marnier. A concentrated, velvety Italian red by one of the pioneering winemakers who invented Super Tuscan wines. Here are some of their stories:
* 2006 Hitching Post "Highliner" Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County: intense, tart cranberry and tart cherry flavors, spicy, smooth and generous; $42.
Chef Frank Ostini and his pal, fisherman Gray Hartley, started making pinot noir together in Ostini’s garage outside Santa Barbara, Calif., in 1981, gradually expanding it to serve Ostini’s Hitching Post Restaurant. They called their best pinot “Highliner,” a term that designates a top fisherman.
Then came the 2005 movie Sideways, filmed in the restaurant, in which buddies Miles and Jack take a long weekend escape before Jack’s wedding. Miles, the wine snob, orders the Highliner by name and effuses over its quality. Later, on the way to a party, he tosses off a casual line about how he’s going to leave if they serve any "%#^%$ merlot.”
Business at the Hitching Post Restaurant has been up 25 percent since. Countrywide, sales of pinot noir soared, and sales of merlot dropped.
Before the movie, Ostini could sell only 200 cases of his Highliner pinot noir for $40 a bottle; today he sells 2,500 cases at $42.
“It’s amazing how much effect a little joke can have,” he says.
* 2001 Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Merlot, Apalta Vineyard, Chile: aromas and flavors of blueberries, mulberries, opulent, silky and smooth, with a bitter chocolate finish; $30:
In the early 1990s an ambitious young woman came of age in France. She was Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle, daughter of the French family that owns Chateau de Sancerre in the Loire Valley, makers of the world-famous Grand Marnier liqueur.
There was no more land in France suitable for grapes, so her father sent her around the world to find a suitable location for a winery. She settled on Chile, in a region 100 miles south of Santiago, where grapes had been planted for decades, but growers lacked the money and expertise to make great wines.
With $12 million of her family’s money, Marnier-Lapostolle built a state-of-the-art winery, hired famous French wine consultant Michel Rolland and created Casa Lapostolle. Today her Cuvee Alexandre Merlot is a top example of what can be done with Chile’s territory and outside money and expertise.
* 2004 Antinori Tignanello, "Super Tuscan" Toscano IGT (85 percent sangiovese, 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, 5 percent cabernet franc): hint of oak, powerful cassis flavors, hugely rich, with a long finish of bittersweet chocolate; $85.
When Piero Antinori took over as the 25th generation to run the Antinori wine empire in 1974, his native Chianti region in Tuscany was in decline. The sangiovese grape that was the heart of Chianti wines didn’t get ripe in cool years, and many Chiantis turned out thin. Breaking tradition, creating a scandal, Antinori and a few other started adding “foreign” grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc to add structure and character to the wines. They created a whole new genre. "Super Tuscan" wines today are some of the best and most expensive in Italy.