Tales of two very different Sonoma County wineries:
La Crema: Head west out of Santa Rosa, Calif., through acres of grape vines, passing tractors and wagons on the road, and soon you're in a dark forest of 100-foot redwood trees alongside a fast-moving river. It's the Russian River Valley.
Here, in one of the coolest parts of Sonoma County, sisters Laura Jackson Giron and Jennifer Jackson, with winemaker Melissa Stackhouse, produce cool-weather varieties of chardonnay and pinot noir.
La Crema is a small family winery with vineyards spread around northern California's coolest areas, including Anderson Valley to the north and Los Carneros to the south.
Stackhouse specializes in the winemaking style of France's cool Burgundy
area, fermenting the grapes in oak barrels, using secondary malolactic fermentation to soften the wines and make them more complex.
Frei Brothers: This winery dates to 1890, when Swiss immigrant Andrew Frei purchased 334 acres in Sonoma County from a gold miner, and, by 1895, was making 20,000 cases of wine a year. In 1903 he turned the vineyard over to his sons, Walter and Louis.
After Prohibition ended, the Frei brothers signed an agreement to sell all of their grapes to Julio Gallo, and, in 1978 the E‚&‚J Gallo Winery bought the vineyard outright, keeping the Frei Brothers name. Today it's part of Gallo's high-end Sonoma operations.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
ø‚2007 La Crema
îîNine Barrel'' Chardon
nay, Russian River Valley:
a big wine, with 14 percent
alcohol; ripe and rich and
creamy, with powerful
baked fruit flavors; $70.
ø‚2008 La Crema
Pinot Noir, Russian River
Valley: black cherry and
bittersweet chocolate aro
mas and flavors; lush and
ripe; $38.
ø‚2007 Frei Brothers
Reserve Sauvignon
Blanc, Russian River Val
ley: aromas and flavors of
cut grass, minerals and cit
rus; crisp and lively; $20.
RECOMMENDED
ø‚2007 La Crema
Chardonnay, Los Carne
ros: lively citrus aromas,
with flavors of toasty oak
and caramel; rich and
creamy; $30.
ø‚2007 La Crema
Pinot Noir, Los Carneros:
black raspberry and
mocha aromas and flavors;
rich and ripe; $38.
ø‚2007 La Crema
Nine Barrel Pinot Noir,
Russian River Valley: big
and rich, with black plum
and cinnamon flavors,
creamy, with ripe tannins;
$90.
ø‚2006 Frei Broth
ers Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon, Alexander
Valley: full-bodied, with
aromas and flavors of
black cherries, licorice
and mint; $24.
ø‚2007 Frei Brothers
Reserve Merlot, Dry
Creek Valley: medium
body, black cherry and
black pepper aromas and
flavors, soft tannins; $20.
ø‚2007 Frei Brothers
Reserve Syrah, Russian
River Valley: black rasp
berry and black pepper
aromas and flavors, soft
tannins; $24.
ø‚2007 Frei Brothers
Reserve Chardonnay,
Russian River Valley: aro
mas and flavors of lemons,
pears, peaches; rich and
soft; $20.